Wow.
That was insane.
When that wave came, I just,
I was in the perfect spot and that's why I
say it's such a gift.
I was just right in the perfect spot and I
turned and I just had to take a few paddles
and I was just.
I felt it pick me up and I looked down
the face and I knew I knew it was big
when I was paddling into it.
But then it wasn't until I looked down the face
and was like it's a long way down.