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In this video, I'm going to show you how to
make a triangle pergola.
It can house either 2 love seats or even a
hammock.
Now I went ahead and skipped building the deck because
I built a few decks for you guys already to
give this pergola a little bit more.
For that I went with a triangle instead of a
typical square.
There are a few ways to compensate for the gap
in between the deck and the ground, but what I
did is since I already have gravel around my property
because I just brought in a few loads on the
tractor and then spread it around evenly.
Now that we have the deck built now we can
go vertical with it starting by setting the post.
Now there are a few different post bases on the
market, but I'm going to go with these tightened bases.
They have a stem on them that is meant to
go into the bottom side of the post.
So you just need to use a pole saw to
make a receiving end for it.
I start off by finding center of the post.
A quick way of doing this is using a speed
square to mark two straight lines, 3 corner to corner.
The intersection of this will be Center for the the
whole saw Brad to start your hole.
Once I sync the hole saw as deep as the
bit will allow me to go.
Next I grab the post base and put it on
as squarely as I can.
Then I use a 3 LB mold to not get
the rest of the way in.
You're able to do this if the wood you're using
is soft wood.
In my case I'm using cedar so I can very
easily knock into that grate.
It's very easy to tell when that post base seeds
all the way because the sound dramatically changes.
Now on the bottom there's going to be already predetermined
holes that I can go through and pre drill so
that then I can run and lag attaching that post
base to the post.
While I was attaching the post to the base, Jake
used one that was just the base to make it
easier to maneuver around so that he can go around
and mark where the posts need to be located and
then go through and pre drill.
Don't do this with the post already attached to it.
It's way too difficult with those marks.
Now I can move each post into position, spend a
little bit of time aligning the holes to those pre
drills and then run in my screws.
One thing to note is I always like to think
about what is going to be the show base so
that I can make sure I'm putting them pretty aside
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All right, now we connect the posts.
I'm going to go ahead and call these members stringers.
These are put in by a few pocket holes.
Drilled it at the top and bottom.
Now I am using galvanized back screws here.
You want to make sure to use hardware that's not
going to corrode over time or stain your cedar.
Now we can move even further up and attach a
header attaching the top of the post.
I personally like to pre paint anything before attaching it.
And yes, it's going to stuff up a little bit,
but a little touch up paint is very easy with
a few measurements.
You can go ahead and get your screws started so
that whenever you're up in the air holding it, you
can simply run it in.
For this attachment, I'm using the Spax lat going straight
into the face and they they do come in black
too easily hide and then going right into the code.
By the way, I do have a set of plans
or if you want a material list and a cut
list for this entire build, including the deck, then check
out my website.
Now we can attach the Raptors.
These are simply cut at a miter to match the
angle of that triangle and then screwed it.
What I'm going to do is I'm going to use
a 15 gauge in order just to tack it up.
And then this way we don't have to be holding
things up in the air and I can come back
and screw it afterwards.
Now what I did is go to the inside of
the pergola up on the ladder and then just reach
over to the outside and instead of trying to match
the angle of the joist, I'm going in straight.
But you don't want to be too close and then
it protrude out this end.
So what I do is hold up the screw here
to see where I need to start it so that
it ends up the majority in here.
So then I would just go here and then drill
it in.
And then that is the framing member of the roof
done.
So now we can start touching the roof panels and
I'm going with the Cuftex material, which is a polycarbonate.
So to give you a rundown, you go through every
other one free drill so that you don't split the
polycarbonate and then you come back with a screw that
has a washer on it and you seat the gasket
all the way down.
You don't want to compress the material too much, but
you just want enough to compress this gasket and make
a water tight seal.
You screw down every other corrugation and then you can
move on to the next one.
Now anytime I add another panel and overlap it, I'm
going to put down a line of caulking.
Now since I'm going with translucent panels, I need to
use clear or it will be visible, but then I
can just rinse and repeat.
Now I started with the center panel and I'm going
to work my way out.
You've seen me use this tough tax material before in
projects like my greenhouse or my carport or even the
outdoor shower.
The stuff is incredibly lightweight and easy to work with.
I love how it lets the sunlight through, but it's
UV protection.
Also know that it's impact resistant, so it's great for
applications like this.
OK, and that is the roof complete.
As you can see it goes very quick and easy.
Now going to be prepping to install panels here.
I mean the panels were to create some privacy, but
in my case I don't necessarily need privacy I just
want them for aesthetics.
So in order to prepare for the panels going to
be throwing in some verticals, going to be toenailing in
from the side, just pre drilling and then running or
and then coming back with a screw afterwards to attach
it.
For the panels I am using exterior grade MDF and
my shop Saber at the woodshed to cut out something
custom.
No, the file for this is included in the plans,
but you can also create your own design.
It was super satisfying to pop out the shape after
they were cut.
I used a roller to give them two good coats
of paint, but then they were ready to be included
in the structure.
In order to get these panels looking really nice on
the back edge, I went through and cut in a
rabbit along every single back.
It's a very messy job and I definitely recommend some
gasket goggles, but I just used a rabbit bit and
a palm router to cut this in and since it's
a little bit deep, I started off the first pass
with about half the depth and then on the second
pass set it to full depth.
Now we'll be able to put the honeycomb panels in
and this pergola will be done.
So the structure is just slightly racked this way.
And we know that by trying to put in these
square panels and then just being about 1/4 inch out.
So getting a nice big drop like this.
And we're going to try to rack and pull the
entire structure over this way slightly right there.
Yeah.
OK, So then we're going to pow, pow, pow.
For attaching I'm using my Simcoe 18 gauge.
Oh my gosh I love it.
That looks so awesome.
So you can choose whatever pattern you want.
Like you don't even have to do panels.
You could do slots.
But know that if you buy the plans, the DXF
for these panels are included.
But also know that if you don't like the kind
of hexagon shape, you can get creative and choose whichever
shape you want.
The other side wasn't rack, so I quickly attached the
remaining 3 panels in the same way.
If you wanted more privacy, you could always make the
pattern a little bit tighter.
And that my friends is a completed pergola.
I don't know what y'all think, but I think this
thing turned out so cute.
I've never seen a triangle or pergola before, but I
am in love with the way that it turned out.
Keep in mind if you want to build your own
that I do have a set of plans for this
as well as the DXF file for the panels.
So I hope that you enjoyed it.
I would love to hear what you think about it
in the comments below and I will see you on
my next video.