This is the Demilitarized Zone, or DMZ.
It acts as a border between North and South Korea.
As dangerous as it looks now,
this place is visited by over 1,000,000 tourists every year.
If you want to visit Solo,
the DMZ Museum and Unification Tower are open to independent
travelers from the South.
But think about this. You're walking into a war zone.
The soldiers may be on troops,
but the land mines are still there.
How can you know where to walk?
That's the thing, you can't.
That's why you'll need a guide to show you the
way.
This is not a place where you want to wander
off,
so it's best to buddy up,
stay with your guides and military escorts at all times.
You will likely have to sign a form that secures
the authorities against any liability if you get separated and
hurt yourself
having second thoughts? No, we're good.
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We'll take care of the travel arrangements.
Let's start the tour, shall we?
The DMZ was established in
1953 after both countries signed an Armistice agreement to end
three years of brutal fighting.
The DMZ runs across the Korean Peninsula.
It's about 249 kilometers long and
3.2 kilometers wide. You'll see barbed wire fences on both
sides and hundreds of thousands of troops with heavy artillery.
This land is also off limits to industrial developments,
allowing wildlife and plant life to bloom.
But you're not an endangered species,
and if you take the wrong path,
you'll probably get shot.
The DMZ is about 48.3 kilometers north of Seoul.
The most visited part of the DMZ is the Joint
Security Area,
or JSA.
This is where tourists can officially enter North Korea and
see their soldiers standing at attention.
If you're American, you'll need to get there via South
Korea using an official tour operator.
That part is super important.
Americans have been banned from entering North Korea since
2017. Citizens from other countries can apply for a visa
and access the DMZ from North Korea,
but it's usually easier from the South.
Make sure to book your appointment about a week before
going,
and do not forget your passport.
Make sure you're paying attention to your surroundings.
Things can get intense real fast.
If tensions arise at the border,
your tour could be cancelled at any moment.
In 2017, a North Korean soldier defected at the DMZ.
He drove a military truck toward the South and crashed
into a tree.
North Korean soldiers began firing at him while he ran
out of the trunk.
They fired over 40 rounds at the soldier.
He managed to dodge most of them,
but was still badly hurt.
The soldier fell unconscious on the grass.
When it looked like he had to run out of
luck,
South Korean soldiers dragged him to safety.
The soldiers then took him to a hospital where he
recovered after treatment.
Enjoying your tour so far?
Let's keep moving.
Crossing the border in the JSA is perfectly legal and
part of the experience,
so don't worry. These blue buildings are UN Command neutral
zones inside which North and South borders are located.
Here you can move freely.
One of the buildings, the United Nations Command Military Armistice
Commission or
UNCMAC, is used for the North and South to have
meetings.
You can even pose for a photo with a South
Korean soldier inside this neutral building.
Do you see that door behind you?
Don't even think about it.
If you cross, you'll be alone and in North Korea
and no one is responsible for your safety there.
The visit to the DMZ also comes with some stunning
views.
Check out the Door Observatory in the M Jim Gagnuri
Peace Park.
This park reflects the two nations painful history and shows
a desire for national reunification.
Here you can also see the Freedom Bridge,
which prisoners use to return to their country at the
end of the war.
If you want a breathtaking scene,
go to Mount Odu Observatory.
It provides a 360° view across the Korean Peninsula.
Up here you can see the contrast between the modern
cities of South Korea and the marshes of the North.
You can even see some civilians in North Korea walking
around.
It will feel like being there without actually setting foot
inside.
The tour usually includes a stop at the unfinished infiltration
tunnels reportedly built by the North.
These tunnels were discovered in
1984. The longest of these tunnels is about
1080 meters in length. One of these tunnels is only
44 kilometers away from Seoul,
and it's estimated that it could move about 30,000 troops
per hour.
Don't venture into these tunnels alone,
Some of them are still unknown to the South.
You could get lost and never be found.
Ensure that you are respectful of the DMZ.
Don't make gestures that could provoke North Korean soldiers.
You cannot wave, signal point or take pictures without permission.
You will also have to follow a strict dress code,
especially if you're coming from the South side.
Avoid wearing sandals, camouflage or ripped jeans.
South Korean officers will be very strict with these policies
since photos taken of a poorly dressed person could be
used to produce propaganda.
Nothing like a picture of you in cargo shorts and
Crocs being used as North Korean propaganda.
Remember that soldier who escaped North Korea?
He made it out alive.
Barely. Others were not so lucky and ended up dead
or in concentration camps,
and some of them even risk escaping these prisons for
a little taste of freedom.
First, you should know that the border with China is
the safest way out,
even if it means crossing a river or a desert.
Discover the stories of the people who made it out
of North Korea right here
on How to Survive.